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Peak Mountain 3

Backtalk

FA T Montgomery, M Brooks 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is on the Bulge Wall. It has the same start as

Blackwalk

before splitting off to the right. This route is great fun to toprope, but I really wouldn't recommend it as a lead because of the poor bolt placements. It is of the same style as

Blackwalk

, thin technical face, but is more sustained and not quite as runnout.

Start up the easy corner of

Blackwalk

and move right at an overlap. From here, the first bolt is straight up, but to reach it climb up the left angling ramp till you can traverse onto the blank face via small holds. Your waist will be above the bolt when you can finally clip it, and the holds you are clipping from are the smallest on the route. The crux is immediately after the bolt. The route continues up on fairly decent holds past a #1 Camalot placement and a bolt to a half driven LA for the last slopey move.

Protection

The pro goes as follows: #0.75 Camalot, bolt, #0.75 or #1 Camalot, bolt, manky fixed LA. There are double bolt rap anchors at the top which can be rapped with a single 60m.


Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress


  1. 48
    Backtalk
    5.10c
    Sport · Tr · Trad