I Can't Copeland

This description is for the first pitch only. The entire route is 4 pitches and is rated 5.9 A3+, but the first pitch is worthy as a free climb in itself.

The climbing follows a thin, offset seam through the headwall to the left of

Sidetrack

. If you like

Alice in Bucketland

type of climbing, check this pitch out. It's a great way to get to the start of The Blunt Buttress and

The Vaporizer

.

I think the only aid climbing Kyle Copeland did on this route is on the thin seam up on P4, just left of

The Vaporizer

. The P4 seam has been toproped at 12+ and is an open project if anyone wants to bolt it.

When I first led this pitch with Chip Ruckgaber and Tim Dewitt, we were anticipating hard free climbing because the Levin guidebook describes it as thin aid, but there are jugs up the headwall that keep it moderate. I'm sure Kyle free climbed this pitch, there were no signs of aiding and no fixed pins.

Get a gear belay at an obvious stance where the route intersects

Sidetrack

in the large, right-facing corner. There are a couple of fixed nuts there. It is possible to rap with 2 ropes to the ground or two raps with 1 rope to the

Redguard

anchor. A 70m rope is needed.

Continue up The Blunt Buttress, 5.11, 5 bolts to be installed April 2018 or

Sidetrack

to

The Vaporizer

.

You can also do this as one 60m pitch from the ground. Long slings are needed.

For reference, look at the photo on page 153 of the Levin guidebook second edition. It is route 74. Start via P1 of the

Redguard

route or P1 of

Anthill Direct

. Look for an obvious, large block above the roof that

Anthill

traverses under. Climb through the overhang to the right of the block on jugs.

A standard rack. Maybe double up on #3 Camelot size so you don't have to back clean a bomber cam below the roof. There are good cams below the overhang and just above it. Some tricky nut placements along the seam keep it at PG-13, but if you miss those, it will feel pretty spicy. Long slings are useful. Save some large nuts or medium cams for the belay.