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Peak Mountain 3

Slack Walk

FA Brad Bond, Mike Schlauch, Spring 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Slack Walk is a bolt protected face climb located about 40' left of the bolted anchor at the start of

Pilgrim

and

High Noon

. There are 5 bolts. The route has well-protected crux moves and a few easy runouts on good stone. The route was approved by ACE, the Park, and the public review process in March 2018.

There are a few crispy holds at the start but the first bolt is very easy to clip. The crux is passing the second bolt. After the crux, climb up and right on easy runout climbing to the third bolt. A few more tricky bulges will lead up and left to an easy slab. Follow the slab to a crack system (good gear) which leads left back to rejoin

Pseudo-Sidetrack

. Continue a few more moves to a large ledge where

Pseudo-Sidetrack

and

Pseudo-Sidetrack Direct

diverge. Follow either of these to the top, and descend the East Slabs.

A rappel option is to downclimb 15' from the divergence ledge to a 1980s bolt and pin anchor (bring some tat) and rappel down maybe 50' to the upper

Pilgrim

/

High Noon

anchor. Keep in mind that a 70m is needed for this option, and even with a 70m, you need to pay close attention to the ends on the last rap.

Location

Start by climbing

Pseudo-Sidetrack

for about 200', veering right when the large tree on Sidetrack Junction comes into view. Belay at a good stance below the first bolt (#0.75 - 1 Camalot).  It is also possible to downclimb from the large tree at Sidetrack Junction or climb to the lower anchor on

High Noon

/

Pilgrim

and follow the strata up and left to the start of the route.

Protection

5 bolts plus a light standard Eldo rack.


Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress


  1. 36
    Slack Walk
    5.10b
    Trad