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Peak Mountain 3

Sticky Feet

FA Harrison, Meyers, 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sticky Feet is located just to the right of

The Bulge

and sees very little traffic. The climbing is adventurous and requires a bit of route finding for the onsight. The climbing on the crux pitch is well protected, but the first pitch has some big runouts on ~5.7 climbing. It is a slight step up from

Shades of Gray

with a similar style of climbing.

P1: Head straight up with multiple 5.8 cruxes through overlaps. All of the crux moves have "sticky feet". You will pass a rotten chickenhead on the left about halfway up the pitch. There is a 25 foot runout on 5.7 climbing near the top of the pitch. Belay on the right side of the scoop (5.8, 5.7R/X, 100 feet).

P2: Angle left through the overhanging wall and pull the lip at a huge bucket. Continue up well-protected rock to a bolt to where the angle eases with runout 5.5 climbing (5.9, 100 feet).

P3: Angle right to easy 5th class to the walk-off (5.4, 150 feet).

The first two pitches can be combined with a 60/70m rope, but you will need a triple set of finger-size cams.

Location

Sticky Feet starts about half up the scramble to

The Bulge

Wall.

Protection

Gear to #3, with extra finger-size cams for overlaps.


Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress


  1. 54
    Sticky Feet
    5.9
    Trad