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Peak Mountain 3

Le Boomerang

FA Chip Ruckgaber
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an excellent pitch that links

Genesis

and

C'est la Vie

via a long diagonal rightward traverse. Begin with Genesis, and climb up into the apex of the roof about forty feet up (you do the .10c crack portion of Genesis). Climb out through the apex of this roof (instead of stepping left) and up into a thirty foot strenuous hand traverse protected by 4 bolts. The traverse ends at the belay below the 5.11 pitch of C'est la Vie. There is a powerful .11 move after the first bolt, and a definite crux involving classic Eldo deviousness after the second bolt, some low .10 remains to the belay. Good climbing on great rock.

Protection

You'll need a few nuts and smaller cams for the beginning, otherwise the upper part is well protected on bolts and pins.


Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress


  1. 17
    Le Boomerang
    5.11+
    Sport · Trad