- Edit (TBD)
The Flakes
Description
Begin to the right of some boulders at the base of the prominent wall just a hundred meters directly north and up from the large cement slab by the river. The climb starts just right of
C'est la Morte
and heads up and around the left side of obvious giant, left-facing flakes.
It is a neat climb with two very different types of climbing: The first half as you climb up and around the overhanging flakes requires pumpy liebacking and some jamming. The upper half is a balancey face climb. The pumpy crux is a few feet of the deck, and then there is a tricky reach (balancey crux) a few feet from the finish - both are well protected.
Be careful of rope drag & make sure you protect your partner as you traverse right once you pass the flakes and then head straight up.
Rap off the anchors.
This is a great one pitch climb.
Protection
Mid cams for the first half, two draws (preferrably one with a long runner) for the upper half. Bolted anchors at top.
Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
- 25The Flakes5.9-Trad