- Edit (TBD)
Description
Starting from the big Juniper on the Juniper Ledge, follow the rotten red ramp up and left to the end. Establish a belay here for the exposed climbing that follows. Make an exposed step out and around the end of the ledge onto the face, staying high beneath a small roof; continue up to a good ledge. Possibly belay here to diminish rope drag. This route zig zags around some. Follow a good crack, that had 2 still-good pitons, back right to the arete and another old piton. Slant up and left to a belay beneath an overhang. Traverse left to a tree and then up to complete the route.
Downclimb the massive East slabs to get off.
Location
This starts from the "Juniper ledge" at the end of the first pitch (60 meter rope; if done with a 50 meter rope, it will require 2 pitches)of "
Pseudosidetrack
." Downclimb East Slabs to the North. Awesome exposure for an easy route!
Protection
Normal rack of wired stoppers, and a couple cams to #2 Camalot or "Friends."
Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
- 27Original Anthill5.7Trad