Wings of Desire

This is referred to as "The Awakening" in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide.

This is a long pitch with several hard sections. On the easier climbing, the bolts are further apart to keep you focused.

Approach: See Richard Rossiter's site for the approach to Sleeping Beauty:

boulderclimbs.com/climbing/…

.

At the left side of Ledge Two, to the right of where the trail meets the cliff, is a tree growing against the rock and touching the overhang about 10' up. 15' left of the tree is a hand crack through the overhang. That's

Kama Sutra

, 10d. Start 8' right of this tree. Climb the ceiling at about 5.10, angle right, and then make some hard thin moves back left at the 4th bolt across a steep slab. The 5th bolt is hidden in the dish above. Don't move right at this steep slab. The silver bolts to the right are

MLK

. Angle left on easy rock below some serious moss and then up a steep slab with a short hard section. Continue up an easier slab at about 5.9 connecting a series of rounded, right-facing flakes to a sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes.

16 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor. A few long slings would be useful. The rope gets pretty heavy near the top due to rope drag.

Two

ropes to rappel.