Immaculate Deception

This is a one-move climb with decent 5.9 climbing below and above the crux, and a hard direct start that should be posted separately. Rossiter calls the crux overhang 11a. For someone of my height (6' 2") it's much easier but tricky to figure it out. Not sure how to rate this. It might be 10a for me. Might be 11a if you're shorter.

Start: Just right of the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side is a thin, somewhat flared crack with several bolts leading to an overhang. This is the direct start. Rossiter says this is 11c/d. Right of this is a left facing corner just left of a large tree with 3 bolts on the slab above the tree.

P1: Start up the corner then step right onto the slab. 5.8ish moves lead to the third bolt. Traverse left to 2 bolts with rings. This is the anchor for the direct start. You could belay here. Continue up and left to a big platform below an overhang with a bolt above it. You can place a yellow Alien to make the clip. The clip isn't that difficult, but you're a long way above the anchor. Make the one move crux and step right to the crack and get gear. Climb the bulge right of the crack on jugs, and continue following the crack, with gear in the crack, but mostly climbing right of the crack. The crack gets wide below an overhang. A #4 Camalot makes it easy to protect the next move. If you didn't bring it, a #3 Camalot will work lower, or you can work a little harder to get a piece higher in the back of the crack. A couple of jams get you high enough to swing out left onto the face. Pull back right, and easy climbing leads to a double tree on the left side of the ledge. Move right on the ledge to the

Crack of Dawn

anchors.

You could continue with the

Crack of Dawn

second pitch (5.8 or 9) or P2 of

Walk on the Wide Side

(5.7, above the trees and a bit left) or even traverse right to join

Mystic Mile

.

Singles from yellow Alien to 0.75 Camalot, doubles to #3 Camalot, optional #4 Camalot. 15+ draws and long slings.