- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is an interesting hybrid that links the first 40 feet of
Kama Sutra
to the last 50 feet of
Wings of Desire
. Jam through the crux roof on KS and climb to a stance beneath the offwidth section. Stem right, clip a lone bolt beneath a roof, then make difficult moves into a previously unclimbed crack that runs parallel to KS, maybe 10 feet to the right. Have 1-inch gear at the ready. Jam straight up the crack to a point very near KS, then follow the crack system up and right to a point where it is easy to reach right and clip the 12th bolt on Wings. The finish is obvious from here (straight up).
Location
This long route/pitch begins with the first 40 feet of Kama Sutra and breaks right beneath a roof just before starting the offwidth section of KS. The route joins the last 5 bolts on
Wings of Desire
and tops out at the ring anchor for this route (160 feet above Ledge Two). With a single 200 foot rope, it is possible to rappel to the new 2-ring anchor on Kama Sutra, then rappel 75 feet to Ledge Two. It is also possible to finish with second pitch of Kama Sutra and descend as described for that route.
Protection
Gear from 1 to 3 inches and maybe 10 QDs. A long sling may be advisable on the lone bolt.
Routes in Main Wall
- 5The Tree of Life5.10bTrad