Crack of Dawn

Crack of Dawn may be named after the famous Yosemite wide cracks Crack of Doom and Crack of Despair. This would be 2 stars if it was cleaner, but, due to water running down the crack, it may never be really clean.

Start on ledge 2 at the first crack system left of

Mystic Mile

.

Mystic Mile

can be identified by a 2 bolt anchor just above the ledge. See beta photo.

P1: 90' 10b: Make a couple moves up the crack then swing left onto the face to bypass the overhang. Using a combination of crack and face/slab moves continue up to a left facing corner where the rock steepens. The crux section follows. Climb the wide crack using somewhat hidden footholds until you can reach hand jams. Use the #4 Camalot here if you brought one. Pull up to the roof and optionally place a #4 Friend/3.5 Camalot. This section was wet today after the last several days of afternoon rain. It may often be wet. Using a fist jam or an undercling, or a rounded horizontal on the right wall, reach out to a bucket at the lip beyond a bolt. I had to hangdog this section on self-belay, so I'm not sure, but you may want to clip the bolt after reaching the arete. High step onto the arete and stand, and you're done with the crux. Step back left into the crack and continue with some stems to a ledge. You could belay here if you are running low on gear, but the wide crack above is much easier than it looks. You need one or two hand-sized cams and a #3 Camalot to finish the pitch. Continue up the crack at about 5.8 until it gets wide again. Move up on big footholds to clip the 2nd bolt and make an 8ish move to gain a good foothold in the crack. Another couple of easy moves lead to a ledge and the anchor.

P2: 70' 5.9: I got rained off and didn't do this pitch. It looks very low angle with many dishes. Rossiter says it's 5.9. Maybe so, but it looks way easier. Leave any trad gear at the belay, since this pitch is sport.

Pitch 1 is trad with 2 bolts at wide sections. Single set finger sized (could do without), double in 0.75 to #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot, #4 Camalot (could do without). Backclean or move cams up when you can. Pitch 2 is sport with 5 bolts. Both pitches have 2-bolt anchors with rings.