Lightspeed

Approach: See

Richard Rossiter's site

for the approach to Sleeping Beauty. At the left side of Ledge Two, to the right of where the trail meets the cliff, is a tree growing against the rock and touching the overhang about 10' up. 15' left of the tree is a hand crack through the overhang. That's

Kama Sutra

, 10d. 10' left of that are bolts through the overhang at some obvious knobs. This is Lightspeed.

The route: The roof is the crux. I did it as a high heel hook with a struggle to pull over my foot. My partner Chuck Graves did it as a mantle with butt on the lip. Neither was pretty. Higher up, at about the 3rd or 4th bolt, stay right, and then step back left. Easier climbing leads to the finish just right of the start of Aerial Boundaries. 85 feet.

Between

Kama Sutra

and Lightspeed is the namesake trad route Sleeping Beauty, 5.10, FA Dan Hare and Scott Woodruff, 1983. It looks to me that Lightspeed and Sleeping Beauty share the same start, and therefore the start of Sleeping Beauty is now bolted. If this is the case, it appears that the bolts do not significantly change the nature of Sleeping Beauty, since there are gear possibilities at the roof.

8 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor.