Center Route P3 Variation

This pitch is a fine option for those that want to summit but are not feeling the. 11b (

Class Act

).

Chimney up the start of the third pitch. When the hand crack appears on the left, follow it up (crux) and out left around the arête. This leads to a leftward traverse which dumps you above the difficult moves of the third pitch of

Wunsch's

. Continue up

Wunsch's

to the base of the bolt ladder.

I was surprised to find no bolted anchor at the base of the bolt ladder as there is no place for a trad anchor unless you have a #4 (combined with the first bolt of the ladder) or build an uncomfortable belay where

Wunsch's

dumps you out onto the platform. I girth hitched the rope to the first two bolts and setup a belay off that.

Before belaying my partner, I had to descend to the last piece I placed and remove it so that I could get the rope out of the crack as it was just fully stuck. The crack just doesn't let the rope run up it. I was able to sit back off the anchor and pull the rope up over the edge of the rock without it falling back into the crack.

Rappel as for

Wunsch's

.

Doubles from 0.75 to 3, one set for before the traverse (lower section) and one set for the upper and maybe three ones and twos if you want to sew it up.