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Peak Mountain 3

Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack

FA Olaf Mitchell & Ken Trout (submitted as Rob Wolfe?) or Rob and Oliver Hill ,1985 or early 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This excellent route starts with the

Center Route

. Head directly right from the center route start, on a weakness/dike, 5.9 R. About 25 feet right there is a crack that arches back left. The first part is the crux--difficult gear and run out 11b PG-13. The crack arches left and crosses back over the

Center Route

. This is the first belay. From this belay, head straight up the thin crack and then up and left to the Fender dihedral. 11+ PG-13.

Per

Kevin Stricker

: the route starts in the

Turf Spreader

chimney then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of

Center Route

is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first part being the scariest, and belay before the hand crack that leads to the

Center Route

P1 anchor.

Location

The start is in the same location as

Center Route

. There are usually sling anchors in the Fender dihedral for rapping, or continue up the Fender crux---full of shit and then

Wunsch's Dihedral

.

Protection

Full range 3 HB to #3 Camalot. 1 piece each hand sizes, doubles on TCU/Aliens. HBs. RPs.