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Peak Mountain 3

CMC Route

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Description

This is the easiest way to the summit of Cynical Pinnacle. The crux is getting to the base of the route (see below). Climb a nice, stemming chimney, with a bit of offwidth at the top until you can mantle on to a very large ledge. (100') Next, climb some offwidth (5.8) to a right-angling crack that takes you to the NW corner of the pinnacle about 50 vertical feet below the summit. Continue climbing the crack (1 or 2 5.7 moves) until you reach easier ground and the summit.

Location

This route is on the north side of the pinnacle. Hike around to the right side and scramble up the boulder and bush laden gully until you see the obvious chimney. This requires a bit of bushwhacking to be sure.

You can rap back down to the very large ledge, where there are anchors that get you to the ground. But why don't you just rap of the west face instead and save yourself the bushwhack? You can reach the ground with one double rope rappel off the west face. This does require some scrambling after the rap, but it is an easy way off.

Protection

Splatte rack.