Don't Fear The Boogie Man

"The name comes from a conversation with longtime local Noel Childs who said climbers had been looking at but then quickly looking away from this obvious line for nearly three decades. The rock quality is impeccable... this is a mega classic."

P1. Step into the prickly start of the sustained squeeze chimney. Sidewind, swim, and frogger your way up to a single bolt anchor on your left (back it up with small cam or two) underneath the roof (5.9+, 60').

P2. Traverse out right, place your optional #5, and delicately worm your way into the alcove under the crux. Sort out gear, and patiently thrash your way out the roof. Succeeding is highly recommended here for various reasons. Belay in the alcove below the next roof. Don't forget to stop and smell the roses. Note: "the 'thin flake' overhead never comes into play"; however, your follower will probably appreciate a bit of belay creativity on your part (5.11, 40').

P3. Hand traverse out left, step up to a large ledge. If there was still any question as to whether you were on route, you'll know when you get here (5.8, 25').

P4. Jam and offwidth your way off the ledge to the creme brulee of the route, a very enjoyable 5.10 offwidth bulge to chimney. Cruise your way to the top of the gaping fissure, and belay on gear (5.10, 105').

Take the approach trail to the base of the formation. Go right about 80 feet. Look up.

Descent: from the slung block on the summit, a 70m single rope rap down the north side will get you to a slab at the base of the uphill side of the formation (knot your ends) but will not get you straight down into the actual gully floor. This seems preferable to rapping into the gully and you do not need a second rope.

The following is what I would consider a pretty reasonable rack. You may want more, you may want less. In other words, supplement with additional Big Bros or leave some on the ground depending on your tolerance for runout 5.8-5.9 chimney.

P1: 2 blue Big Bro, #9, gold Big Bro. A finger - thin hand piece for the belay.

P2: "optional #5", #9 and green Big Bro OR 2 green Big Bros. Hand - fist sized gear for the belay.

P3: rack to #4.

P4: rack to #6. Small-ish cams could be placed in horizontals on occasion if you were so inclined.