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Peak Mountain 3

Knowledge was their Treasure

FA Jeff Gicklhorn, Nick Henscheid, Nov 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another stellar route with defined cruxes pulling the roof mid-route and just below the anchor. Solve these mysterious sequences and find the reward at the anchor. Only loses a star for mediocre rock quality around bolts 6 & 7, just before pulling the roof - the rest of the route is excellent.Note: there is now a one-bolt link up that starts on this route but takes a hard left before pulling onto the steep section, finishing on Mutton Buster. It goes at 5.9...see "The Golden Fleece". Important Note: This route is around 40m long and will require either an 80m rope to lower to the ground, or climbers will need to use the intermediate anchor just above the roof to rappel twice or lower-pull-lower (60m should be fine with the midway anchor - tie knots!!). If you aren't comfortable rappelling or double lowering, do not climb this route! Note that this route cannot be TRd without an 80m rope!

Location

Next route to the right of Mutton Buster, see topo.

Protection

18 Bolts, Mussy Hooks. A long draw is helpful on the 7th bolt to minimize rope drag.