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Peak Mountain 3

Temple of Doom

FA Nick Henscheid, Scott Pryor, Jonathan King, Jeff Gicklhorn
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Important Note: this route is 40+m long! You will need to lower or rappel twice, using the midpoint anchor  (anchor for "Temple of the Sun").  A 70m is DEFINITELY required to double lower.  An 80m may not get you to the ground.  With a 60m you will need to rappel! Please use caution and tie knots. Temple of Doom takes one of the proudest lines up the Whippersnapper wall, tackling nearly 40m of sustained, fantastic climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. While somewhat bouldery in nature with many full recovery rests to be found between difficulties, it is also very sustained in that there are at least 5 distinct crux sections, each unique and challenging, so you may find yourself struggling to pull the final 5.10 bulge at the end.Start by climbing "Temple of the Sun", the 11b first pitch (listed as a separate route).  Clip a long runner to the chains, rest up, then proceed towards the first crux of the second pitch: a very cryptic sequence of slots, pockets, sidepulls and a bizarre loaf hold.  Tackle a few bolts of easier terrain then rest up again before the second (upper) crux, which launches into a steeper section of bullet grey rock.  Find your path through widely spaced pockets, sidepulls, a toe-hook or two and a perfect chert knob that hopefully sticks around.  Continue on for another 30-40 feet of joyous 5.10 to the chains.  Because of its length and sustained difficulty, this route took a long time for me to suss out and send.  I went back and forth many times about the grade, thinking it could be as easy as 11a/b and as hard as mid 5.12 at times.   When it came down to it, it only took two lead tries from the ground to get the send on the full line, with 4 or 5 tries to get the first pitch ("Temple of the Sun"). I worked the upper cruxes on TR several times.  Ultimately I think 11+ is appropriate but consensus will tell!I'm also giving it a heavily biased four stars knowing that it needs a little cleaning yet to be perfect, mostly around the 3rd & 4th bolts and at the very top.  99% of the rock is immaculate and the movement is spectacular.

Location

Extension to "Temple of the Sun".

Protection

4 fixed draws and approx. 20 additional draws.