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Peak Mountain 3

Don't Call me Junior!

FA Jeff Gicklhorn, Nick Henscheid, Nov 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This long, spectacular route follows moderate lower angle climbing to a short but stellar lieback flake and a steep, featured headwall with sustained but moderate moves all the way to the top.  The lieback flake looks a little spooky, but we wailed on it with the pry bar and it didn't budge so climb with confidence.Important Note: This route is around 40m long and will require either an 80m rope to lower to the ground, or climbers will need to use the intermediate anchor just above the roof to rappel twice or lower-pull-lower (60m should fine with the midway anchor - tie knots!!).  If you aren't comfortable rappelling or double lowering, do not climb this route! Note that this route cannot be TRd without an 80m rope!

Location

Starts up a featured slab just left of "Misery and Gin" and just right of "Knowledge was their Treasure".  See topo.

Protection

17 Bolts, mussy hooks. A long draw is helpful on the 6th bolt to minimize rope drag.