pitch 1: 5.6, thin crack & offwidth

pitch 2: 10b runout slab

Harm's Way

Kitty Litter Variation

Peer Pressure Left

Tangled Up in Blue

The Guillotine

Obscured by Time

Graham Crackers

Break Out

Innominate II

Greasy Kid Stuff

Little Murders

Bunny Slope

Obscured by Clouds

June Gloom variation

Tabby Treat

Peer Pressure

Decapitation

Cats Meow

Yours

Unnamed Slab

Peer Pressure Right

Hillside Strangler

The Thin Man

Superfluous Bolt

Cat's Cave Inn

Shine On

Shine On takes the direct line above the second bolt on the first pitch of Obscured By Clouds. Where Obscured moves right on the dike, continue more or less straight up on approximately 100' of independent climbing. Difficult friction climbing leads past 4 more bolts to the top. The crux is encountered getting to the stance for the 4th (2nd new) bolt.

Turn the roof on top before a gear belay. A possible alternative would be to belay from gear under the roof (probably less than pleasant).

The rock is of very good quality although slightly flaky in spots. It has cleaned up reasonably well, but should improve even more as it sees traffic.

Short route climbing a left corner that can link up to Tabby Treat or traverse past the bush to the anchors above Peer Pressure.  Crux is the lower part of the climb, where the protection is a bit harder to find.

Starting from the base of the block move left and climb the well defined arete to anchors.

Climb past the first bolt of Superfluous Bolt, up to the base of the shallow ramp/dihedral. Climb straight up past a bolt to a slim, right-facing corner with a widening thin crack. Follow this up to an overlap. Climb over this, then face climb past another bolt, up to a belay at the top of the flake system. Join Guillotine for a final easy pitch to the top.

Some fun, easy liebacking on large, sharp flakes (including the guillotine flake) takes you up a right-facing corner.  Climb up into a short, well-protected squeeze chimney (crux) and struggle up to a comfortable belay.  Runout but easy (5.5) friction moves take you to the top of the rock.  Walk off to the right.  Some people have avoided the squeeze chimney by a committing, very runout lieback.  Done this way, the climb deserves an "R."

Two pitch climb with an easy first pitch, 5.8 on hollow flakes and a short slab finish. Second pitch is some heady moves off the belay to a short right facing flake (finger size pro) and then pure shoe rubber friction past two bolts and over the roof.

This climb provides a good introduction to multi-pitch routes.  It is well-protected, has a variety of moves, and is not sustained.  A fifteen foot section of face climbing near the top is the crux.  It starts in an obvious notch, a ways to the right of the Cat's Cave Inn dihedral.  Walk off from the top.  This climb is in the shade most of the day.

This route has two pitches of crack climbing, very near the right end of the rock.  Pitch 1 (5.6) has two well-protected crux sections:  a short hand crack and a fingertip lieback.  Pitch 2 is easy (4th class).  This climb is almost always in the shade.

This is a short, clean, runout friction route at the right end of the rock.

Climb thin cracks and flakes up the slab between the Guillotine and Graham Crackers to a short fist crack ending 80' up.  Here the difficulties begin with a tough-to-protect seam (bring micro-nuts), then a horizontal with a shallow blue Alien sized pin scar, and 20' of slab (crux) to the rap anchor.  The upper slab is a bit contrived, avoiding a short traverse left to easier, more featured rock.  Climb up the center of the slab for full effect.

This route climb the huge, right-facing corner system at the far end of the crag and is the last major feature on the wall before it peters out into the hillside. Lieback up the corner and at the top either finish straight up or undercling out right via a large, somewhat dubious flake (5.5). Easy descent by walking right from the top and downclimbing an easy flake/ramp system below a large pine tree.

Large slab to the right of Tabby Treat.

Thinner and thinner technical moves (2 bolts) lead to a left trending and tenuous undercling (piton). Over this and up to a bolt - then either left to join Cat's Meow (5.10c) or straight up the blank slab (5.11b) to a horizontal crack, and easier stuff.

P1) Start about 20' right of some large flakes leaning against the wall (

The Guillotine

) and climb smooth face up past an overlap (.75 cam) to a bolt shared with

Superfluous Bolt

, and then continue up and right to another small roof/overlap. Load up the overlap with gear (.65"-1") and then make crimpy moves over the roof (5.10d) to reach a stance and another bolt. Continue past one more bolt (5.9) to reach a bolted belay. Note - it's a 100' rap straight to the ground from this anchor.

P2) Climb unprotected friction moves off the belay to a small flake up and left (thin pro) and then run it out to the top; fortunately the angle quickly kicks back and the climbing, while runout, is much easier.

Climbers comfortable at this grade will find this to be an enjoyable and high quality route that seldom sees much traffic. The name of the route is that of a 1972 Pink Floyd album that also was the soundtrack to

La Vallee

, a French film.

Climb straight up past the first bolt on Superfluous Bolt,  up to and over the overlap (5.10a) just left of where Obscured by Clouds crosses over it, up to a small stance.Thin (10c) slab moves up and right merge at Obscured's third bolt.

This climb and Little Murders (not far to the right) are the best routes under 5.6 at Suicide.  Tabby Treat has two pitches of fairly well-protected climbing up a prominent dihedral.  The rock is a bit loose.  Walk off right to descend.

Fun, balancy face route on good rock.  It is adequately protected, but can be easily toproped (just scramble up the right side of the flake).  This area is in the shade most of the day.

Listed as TR in the Vogel/Gaines guide this has been bolted since. The start is pretty contrived with holds right near by to the left but the upper half is pretty fun and probably a safer lead than the second half of Greasy Kid Stuff.

Nice climb with a bit of lie backing, a small bit of face and a few moves of offwidth.

Start by getting the first thin cam under the left angling flake and then you can face climb to the right of the piece and over it to get onto the left side of the flake.

Follow the flake system up, always staying left of new flakes/overlaps via some liebacks until getting under a wide section about 80' up. You can get a 1/2-3/4" piece deep inside to protect and then OW up the next few moves to a good handhold. Alternatively if you don't like groveling there are holds around the top of the small roof but it is much less secure.

Pulling over that last roof, if you have a 50/60m rope then go up and right about 15' to set a belay (100'). With a 70 meter you can go up and right a few feet, sling a small horn sticking out of the rock and climb easy 5th solution pockets to a small crack for gear another 10' up then easy 4th/5th up trending right until about 15' below where it levels off. Belay from there. Rope drag will be some what strong but your on easy ground.

This is a pleasant two pitch route with a variety of well-protected climbing:  jamming, liebacks, face climbing, and a crux mantle near the top.  It is in the shade most of the day.

Fun slab with surprisingly good friction, easy to top rope right after you run Innominate II. Listed as 5.9/10a.

Can easily be top-roped after climbing Little Murders, or scrambling up from the right, but you might need a 70 meter rope to belay from the bottom.

Starting from the base of the block move right and climb the well defined arete to anchors.

A weird entry move takes you up onto a clean arete.    A wide variety of moves goes up (and just left of) the arete.

Climb up the vertical seam and cross up and left to the next left leaning seam until reaching a larger crack about 40' up. The first 20' are probably the crux. It is easy to blow it early by putting your gear where your fingers need to go.

Continue up the larger crack to a few liebacks on the left of flakes. At about 100' and then go right on a little ledge to belay.

P2 take any upward direction on easy (4th/easy 5.0) terrain for about 150'.

My strongest memory of this climb is its serious runout (and I was following)!  Down low, it's tricky but well protected.  Then you head up a long, thin left-facing flake system with no gear.  The crux move at the top of the flake can be protected (sort of) with a small wired nut.  Pitch 2 is short and easy.  Walk off right to descend.

This is a very obvious line (huge right-facing corner), but an unpleasant climb.  It has a long squeeze chimney and dirty rock.  Walk off from the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (v) North Face