- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1) Start about 20' right of some large flakes leaning against the wall (
The Guillotine
) and climb smooth face up past an overlap (.75 cam) to a bolt shared with
Superfluous Bolt
, and then continue up and right to another small roof/overlap. Load up the overlap with gear (.65"-1") and then make crimpy moves over the roof (5.10d) to reach a stance and another bolt. Continue past one more bolt (5.9) to reach a bolted belay. Note - it's a 100' rap straight to the ground from this anchor.
P2) Climb unprotected friction moves off the belay to a small flake up and left (thin pro) and then run it out to the top; fortunately the angle quickly kicks back and the climbing, while runout, is much easier.
Climbers comfortable at this grade will find this to be an enjoyable and high quality route that seldom sees much traffic. The name of the route is that of a 1972 Pink Floyd album that also was the soundtrack to
La Vallee
, a French film.
Protection
3 bolts, anchor (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5" (mainly thin),
Routes in (v) North Face
- 10Obscured by Clouds5.10dTrad