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Peak Mountain 3

The Guillotine

FA Allen Steck and Chuck Wilts, October 1969
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Some fun, easy liebacking on large, sharp flakes (including the guillotine flake) takes you up a right-facing corner. Climb up into a short, well-protected squeeze chimney (crux) and struggle up to a comfortable belay. Runout but easy (5.5) friction moves take you to the top of the rock. Walk off to the right. Some people have avoided the squeeze chimney by a committing, very runout lieback. Done this way, the climb deserves an "R."

Protection

standard rack with a few larger pieces