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Peak Mountain 3

East Corner

FA TM Herber, Bob Kamps 1969
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a under appreciated corner of rock that doesn't see the traffic that it deserves. The line is clean thin technical and well protected. The grade deters most people I'm sure but if you can climb 5.10a you can climb this route. The crux is a short mantle over a bulge, a two move wonder. The rest is no harder than .10a. You can easily pull on gear over the bulge if you decide you can't do it. Bring small gear. After you climb over the crux bulge/roof, continue up about 40ft and climb out of the corner when the crack begins to disappear. Two bolts await.

Location

Climb any number of routes to reach the corner alcove. My recommendation is to climb Preparation H and traverse out left on the ledge at the first belay into the corner. The original route starts in a 5.8 crack to the left of Haystack called Micro Brew. The best way down is to walk off the top like most routes on East Wall.

Protection

Cams 1-2ea .5"-3" Nuts 1set.