- Edit (TBD)
Description
The first pitch starts up the face to the Left of the East Wall corner. Begin climbing up and traversing out left following flakes and dikes through a dirty face. Don't wander too far left or you'll end up in a crack with more bush than a 70's porn. Eventually the natural line will guide you back, traversing to the right again and finishing up a bushy crack to the big ledge.
Pitch 2 climbs the corner strait up on the Right side of the ledge. Follow the corner (5.9) until you can exit to the left out of the big corner before it heads out, arching to the Right. Just above where you exit, there is a section of slab on the lip of the big corner system. This is the crux as you'll have to smear your way up an ever steepening slab with zero pro for about 30ft over the lip of a big roof system. Make a few .10 moves and savor the big holds above just below a bulge. Some gear can be found here. Climb over the bulge (easy) to more moderate and much better protected face climbing above. Belay where you can, there are a few good spots.
Pitch 3 climbs more or less strait up the low angle face (5.6) to the top.
Location
Just to the left of East Wall on that dirty lichen covered face.
Protection
Cams .5"-2" Nuts, 1 set.
Routes in East Wall
- 17Pigs on the Wing5.10b/cTrad