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Peak Mountain 3

Fantasia

FA Royal Robbins, Ken Wilson 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

To find this climb, look for a very featured slab below a very prominent crescent arch crack that forms a roof. Begin climbing up a highly featured (dikes) face below the arch to the roof, about 50ft of unprotected 5.5

Pitch #1:

From the start of the route, head up over this roof, work up to another small roof traversing left a bit and then up through easy runnout face to the first bolted anchor, about 140 feet up.

Pitch #2:

This shorter pitch is probably the simplest and best protected pitch of the route. From the first belay station, continue up the face to a horizontal cracksystem that leads up and slightly right to the second bolted belay station.

Pitch #3:

This long pitch will get you to the top of the rock. Climb up and left to a mantle with poor to no protection, 5.9. Continue strait up on easier face to a short slabby area. Make some runnout slabby moves through a blank section and climb up into the roofs above. There are many ways to go up high with none much better than the other. Just go more or less strait up getting pro where you can.

Protection

Cams, doubles to 2". Bring many long slings, you will need them on almost every placement.