Mainline

You might do some soul searching on this one...

Pitch 1 Climb right off the ledge and get a cam or two in the left facing corner to protect the beginning of your journey. The comfort of the corner pro will be gone soon. Climb past two bolts and build a belay where the wall gets steep under the giant horizontals. 5.9+

Pitch 2 climb straight off the belay into the large horizontals. An old #4 or new #5 can fit in the higher horizontal. Make the off balance moves to corner and pull the overhang. Climb up to the next roof and pull through on the left side. Build a gear belay on the ledge. You will see the anchors for last of the Dixie trads out left. 5.10

Pitch 3 climb straight off belay up the face till another large ledge is reached with a roof above it. Get some gear on the right side of roof and climb back down and around the left side of the roof. Once on the ledge above roof head right to bolted anchors. 5.8

Pitch 4 climb right off the belay up the face aiming for the small left facing corner. That big cam you brought can protect the moves getting up to the corner. Climb the corner (small cams) and when that corner ends step right and climb up the face then when you reach the ledge traverse left to anchor on a nice ledge with the bolts on the “floor” 5.10

Pitch 5 climb easy terrain and carefully clipthe first bolt. Get burly and power through 2 bolts and into easier terrain. Cut left and navigate deceptive overlaps using your compass and gain a ledge with a double bolt belay. 5.12

Pitch 6 meander around the right side of the roof, head back left making some weird things happen to gain an old bolt from when Bob Rotert ventured way left off New Diversions and backed off. Navigate the crusty face above seeking out the path of least resistance. Aim for the white face above with 3 bolts. Climb through this difficult section and at the last bolt cut right under the bulge. Build a belay on the perfect ledge under the overhang. 5.11+

Pitch 7 power up through overhang on jugs cutting back right after the first bolt to encounter another difficult crux with some really cool holds. Climb up to a ledge where supposedly the FA team built a belay. We did not find adequate protection for a belay so head left on ledge and climb in the right facing corner where you can build a solid belay at a less than ideal stance 5.11+

Pitch 8 climb right off the belay and make some difficult unprotected face moves to gain low angle terrain. Push through the brush and complete a final vegetated boulder problem to be at the guard rail on the main loop trail. Take a deep breath as you have just escaped the grasp of a bone crushing route. 5.10

Pass by the start for Vol Wall/Arm & Hammer and walk down the cliff line hugging the wall. Eventually the trail drops down the hill. Instead of following it down the hill stay along the wall and walk out onto a ledge with a short left facing corner at the right hand side of the ledge. The route starts off this ledge. You can see the first bolt way up there. Reference picture of pitch 1.

Cams from 00-3. Doubles in .75-1 can be helpful. A #5 or old #4 protects a couple 5.10 moves on two pitches where you’d deck if you blew it but not crucial. Tricams. A handful of small and micro nuts/brass/offset. Half ropes are helpful.