- Edit (TBD)
The Volunteer Wall
Description
Awesome route. Most of the route is well protected but the 1st pitch (p1 and p2 as shown in guide linked) has substantial runouts on easy terrain and the Rotten pitch has potential for very nasty long and unclean fall onto a slab if a hold breaks on you at the wrong spot on the way from the 2nd to 3rd bolt. Watch out for the crazy caver-rappellers, they tend to drop their massive clusters of rope and huge rocks right down on the route.
P1: climb slab up to huge hollow flakes, continue up to a bolt, climb nice left facing corner to a belay bolt, then continue up and left past a bolt then up past a bogus pin then up face (keep sharp eye out for gear) and continue to 2 bolt belay on register ledge 40 feet left of the top of the obvious left facing corner to the right (5.11a, 190 ft)
P2: walk right along register ledge then clip a fixed pin with a long sling and continue up face following path of least resistance to base of the huge right facing coal mine corner (5.8, 150 ft)
P3: "The coal mine" Climb the corner past a bolt and then past some small gear (a #2 ballnut works good as do micronuts) Continue to 2 bolt anchor to the left and make sure rope doesn't run through notch of crack. (5.11d/12a, 80 ft)
P4: "The Happy Hooker Pitch" make a mantly move to gain the face, then continue up and right past 2 well spaced bolts and perhaps a fixed head. to a 2 bolt belay (5.10c, 70 ft)
P5: "The Rotten Pitch" clip a low first bolt, make tricky moves to gain a hard to clip 2nd bolt (watch out for a 1 foot ledge below you if you fall) then continue up and left on kinda rotten terrain and hope those big creaky jugs don't break (probably way better now than it used to be). Continue to two bolt anchor.
P6: "The Jump Pitch". One of the best pitches ever. Pull the roof then continue up the excellent face. Well spaced gear / bolts but totally clean falls into space
P7: "The bathtub Pitch" traverse 50 feet to the right and climb past a bolt into the "bathtub" then place a #4 camalot on the right side and continue up the tightly bolted face above to a moderate crack (5.11d). traverse left to caver bolts and belay
P8. 5.4
Location
Between The Great Aha and Last of the Dixie Trads. Just before the trail along the base of the SE face scrambles down a 25 foot ledgy granite slab, scramble up to a narrow tree ledge 25 feet up.
Protection
Singles of cams to #4, nuts including micro ones. all the bolts are replaced or in good condition.
Routes in Southeast Face
- 6The Volunteer Wall5.12aTrad