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Peak Mountain 3

The Route Doctors

FA Doc Bayne & Whitney Heuermann
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: pad up slab clipping three bolts. At the third bolt start angling left to gain the right facing corner and build a belay. 5.9

Pitch 2&3: climb the corner and pull onto face climbing through a series of bolts on good holds with fun movement and small run outs. All is gravy aside from a scary mega hollow, rather sharp and fairly detached flake. Use caution and cruise onwards. Originally done as two pitches it’s best to link pitch 2&3 together as pitch 3 is mellow. When you reach the big ledge with good gear keep climbing up the face and you’ll be rewarded with a two bolt belay and two pitches efficiently placed behind you. 5.10+

Pitch 4: climb up off the belay and continue climbing straight eventually you will clip a couple bolts one providing protection for a fun roof bulge. When you gain the ledge traverse left and build a belay under the blocky looking roof with bolts. 5.9

Pitch 5: This is the crux pitch. Climb over blocky terrain and into the dark dirty looking streak right of right facing corner. Climb up overhang clipping two bolts to a stance before the upper slab. Cut right to a bolt then go straight up through tricky blank face then another bolt with more trickery. Avoid going right onto traditions and keep going straight till you reach the ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.12

Pitches 6-8 Go straight up and left off the bolted anchor making a few run outs on the steep featured face. The next pitch goes into the steep juggy pitch 7 of traditions 6&7 can be easily linked to the tree ledge. 5.10.

Off the tree ledge pick your choice of travel and take it to the top 5.6

this route was rebolted by Sam England

Location

In between New Diversions & Traditions

Protection

Single cams to #2, extras in fingers, and tricams pink-blue for a couple placements and belay gear.