- Edit (TBD)
Description
Dirty Dikes Done Dirt Cheap climbs the first four pitches of New Perversions and then keeps going straight up to the top
Pitch 1 climb the first pitch of the OR and walk along the ledge going up hill until directly below the giant tree ledge above
Pitch 2 climb straight up to the left hand side of the next tree tree ledge using your sniffer to find the way through easy face and slab. Rotert describes belaying in the wide crack and splitting this into two pitches but with a 60 meter linking this is the move. Belay at the small tree on the left of the ledge
Pitch 3 climb straight up and over the left hand side overlap. Navigate more run out vertical face climbing aiming for the huge right facing corner above. The corner is just right of the “white dome” that is just right of Whippin Boy. You will find a double bolt belay above. This pitch was also originally done as two. First landing you on the ledge the second taking you to the “pillar” above the corner. Definitely link these 2 pitches as you don’t really get enough gear to create rope drag
Pitch 4 crank the mantle through the overhang that is the crux of New Perversions (5.11). You can get a medium offset stopper (maybe a poor tricam/cam?) above the bolt. Traverse the ledge left 10’ and climb the steep juggy face straight above to a ledge with a small tree on it.
Pitch 5 peak over the bulge and look up at the steep face above the next pitch. Spy the lone bolt for the next pitch to guide your way. Climb off the left side of the belay ledge heading straight up towards the ledge with the bolt above it. Take your time in building a good belay at this location. Some of the rock is suspect
Pitch 6 clip the bolt 12’ or so off the ledge and begin a tough and boogery sequence (5.12). My first attempt this thing punked me out. Keep it together through 5.10 climbing after the crux or you will surely deck on the belay ledge. Climb easy rock to the top.
Location
Starts at first pitch of the OR
Protection
it could be nice to have doubles units for belays. Tricams and a couple small/medium stoppers
Routes in Southeast Face
- 16Dirty Dikes DDC5.12Trad