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Peak Mountain 3

Toys for Tots

FA Charlie Fowler 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Short and steep with some very questionable flakes and a spooky, but relatively easy slab finish.

Find the obvious Mr. Natural hand crack on the Redgarden West Face approach trail. Just left of that is a smooth face bounded by a left-facing chimney on right and a corner/groove on the left. Just right of the corner/groove is the Toys for Tots face with two bolts.

Climb to the first bolt, avoiding using the corner if possible, make crux moves a bit left of the bolt to good holds. Angle right on some very questionable flakes and clip the second bolt. Pull up and right onto the base of a slab. You can get some sketchy gear in a flake here. Step up onto two big footholds but with not much for the hands. Either lean right to a big flake or make some thin moves up the slab, and on to the red band.

Place some cams in a good block and in a good horizontal crack to the left. You can toprope from this anchor. The second to last person in the party should travese right to the tree on Mr. Natural and belay the last person from there. Rappel from the Mr. Natural tree.

Protection

2 good 3/8" bolts protect the hard sections. Microcams in the corner to the left protect the first clip. Above the second bolt it's runout slab at about 5.8. You can get some brass nuts and small cams to green Alien in a flake before the runout, but the flake is expanding, so the gear is doubtful. Cams from about 0.5 to #2 Camalot to set up the anchor.


Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp


  1. 18
    Toys for Tots
    5.11a
    Sport · Trad