- Edit (TBD)
Description
I’m surprised Tony B. has not posted this! It’s not very good though. It does not deserve a bomb rating or a star. You have to choose one though, so I chose a bomb. The crux of the route is near the bottom just above the rotten band. You can place a bomber nut here and a tri-cam as well. This feels hard for a 5.9 as listed in the guidebook. It feels more like a 5.10. Pulling out of the rotten band and over the small roof, there is one good hand hold and one sloper hand hold, and you loose sight of your feet.
Above, you climb a short slab and do a few moves of
The Slimy Spoon
before reaching a small roof with hand-sized jams and good hand holds. This section is easily protectable. You then reach the sub-ramp where you can belay. You can then climb
The Slimy Spoon
,
Vertical Smile
, or something else along the sub-ramp to the left.
Location
Start to the left, north, of
The Slimy Spoon
and
Rosy I
at the next obvious weakness in the rotten band of rock. This is just left of a small tree. You can see a small slot at the top of the rotten rock leading to a slab above.
Protection
A standard rack. There is no fixed anchor.
Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
- 38Slime Monster5.9Trad