- Edit (TBD)
Description
Rosy I is a new line that I spent a lot of time cleaning so that it climbs safely and so that solid gear placements can be found. It crosses a few routes and shares some of "
Vertical Smile
" and the ending with the
Slimy Spoon's
"Fork Finish".
Pitch 1: start in the corner system just up hill of the
Slimy Spoon's
start and just downhill of the "Slime Monster" overhang. An interesting(5.8) start with tricky gear leads to a long 5.7 runout. Move left to cross the Slime Monster and climb the steep, blocky face out left(5.8) below Slime Monster's upper roof. Step up on the
Slimy Spoon's
traversing ledge and bust out to the right on beautiful face edges for a long, runout 5.7+ section to gain the thin crack above. Belay at the base of the classic
Slimy Spoon's
2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: step out right as for "
Vertical Smile
" but instead power up and left to gain the diagonal system (5.9) that takes some good gear. Now you make wild moves to gain the arete that is formed by the
Slimy Spoon's
dihedral. Balancy and exciting moves on the arete bring you up to the
Vertical Smile
crack for 10'. You can choose to finish numerous ways. I like to climb out left to finish with the "Fork Finish" which puts you right at the summit of the "Lower Ramp"!
This is a perfect position to continue up toward
Rosy Crucifixion
and its neighbors....
Location
See the photos....
Protection
An Eldo rack - thin to 3".
Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
- 39Rosy I5.9Trad