- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route begins at the end of the first pitch of the
Direct Start to Super Slab
in an incipient crack above a 2' to 4' high piece of deadwood. The crack ends about 20 or 25 feet up. The route goes straight up from the top of the crack and to the Lower Ramp on very small holds. The rock is clean and solid. The rating is based on what I was generally capable of at the time, but may be erroneous (harder).
Location
Start about 20 or 25 feet right of the second pitch of the
Direct Start to Super Slab
. The deadwood may no longer be there, but the crack is the only feature between the old aid line (erroneously attributed to me and Chris Revely) and the sharp arete to the right.
Protection
There is one tiny brass placement in the crack. Otherwise there is no protection. I would advise you to take this pitch very seriously. It deserves its X rating! On the first ascent in 1973, a 165' rope caused the second to have to climb up a way in order to set a dubious belay. Take a 60 meter rope!
Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
- 55Quantum Mechanics5.11a/bTrad