We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Cornerstone

FA Peter Hunt TR 1986; Mark Tarrant self-belay(!) 1986.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Cornerstone is the challenging face left of the Chockstone P1 crack. The 9/21/03 Chockstone photo by Guy Humphrey clearly shows the crux section of the Cornerstone face and the thin left-facing flake. According to Rossiter, Mark Tarrant led this self-belay with 2 bolts that were later chopped. Rossiter mentions a second pitch that was also led (presumably by Tarrant) with 2 bolts, and those bolts were also chopped. Rossiter doesn't give a rating or location for the second pitch.

Climb the first few moves of Chockstone to the stance below Chockstone's crux. The climbing is sustained from here for the next 20 feet or so. Move left to reach a thin flake, then climb the flake to its top. With your feet near the top of the flake, move left to reach the arete, which is pretty slick. Another move gets you a small ledge and the end of the hard climbing. It is possible, but more difficult, to move left to the arete after first stepping up onto the flake, rather than climbing to the top of the flake. The next bit feels like cheating: Climb the left side of the arete for a few moves. You are only a few feet from the Knight's Move corner, and you could easily stem over to it. Step back right onto the main face and continue to the anchors. From the ledge after the crux to the anchors is about 5.9 or perhaps a bit harder.

Variations: (I did not do these). Climb the entire arete from the ground, 12 something according to Rossiter. Possible minor variation: Avoid Chockstone by climbing about 2 feet further left.

Protection

Top rope after climbing P1 of Chockstone or perhaps Knight's Move. Clip a sling to Chockstone rap anchor, and place a double length sling over the flake to the left with 0.5 to #2 Camalots for backup.