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Peak Mountain 3

Friends in High Places

FA Bruce Hildenbrand and Robert Mueller, 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route starts about 10 feet to the right of

Purple Haze

. (On the upper section of the West Ridge)

P1 - Start up a crack in the middle of the face. This pitch is fairly easy (6). Go past a small tree stump. Belay at the ledge.

P2 - I almost want to give this a Serious rating. It begins with a couple hard 5.9 pinchy moves. There's really no pro on the direct line to start the pitch, but if you really want to you can barely get a stopper in crack around a small corner on the right. Pull over the "hump" and continue to the dihedral on the left, past a piton. The 10a section comes just after the piton. Follow the crack up to the tree with slings. 80 foot rap.

Protection

Bring small cams from #0.2 to #0.75 (Camalots) and a set of small stoppers. The top of the first pitch has a great place to use large stoppers and some small camp tricams for a good anchor. You are able to rap off the top of p2 with a 50m rope from a bolted anchor.