- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route starts about 10 feet to the right of
Purple Haze
. (On the upper section of the West Ridge)
P1 - Start up a crack in the middle of the face. This pitch is fairly easy (6). Go past a small tree stump. Belay at the ledge.
P2 - I almost want to give this a Serious rating. It begins with a couple hard 5.9 pinchy moves. There's really no pro on the direct line to start the pitch, but if you really want to you can barely get a stopper in crack around a small corner on the right. Pull over the "hump" and continue to the dihedral on the left, past a piton. The 10a section comes just after the piton. Follow the crack up to the tree with slings. 80 foot rap.
Protection
Bring small cams from #0.2 to #0.75 (Camalots) and a set of small stoppers. The top of the first pitch has a great place to use large stoppers and some small camp tricams for a good anchor. You are able to rap off the top of p2 with a 50m rope from a bolted anchor.
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
- 25Friends in High Places5.10aTrad