- Edit (TBD)
Description
Lots of climbing when combined with the first half of
Chockstone
. A good hard 11 for the solid 10 climber, since the 11 crux is at a good bolt, and therefore very safe and easy to aid if necessary.
Do the first half of
Chockstone
(10a), step right at the tree rap anchor. Clip a bolt in the dihedral above and do the crux moves to enter the dihedral and reach a good jam. You might want to clip the bolt with a single locking biner since there is a chance you can hit the ledge falling off the crux. I was unable to do the crux moves, but came close a few times. So for me it was 10+ A0. Step left out of the corner and up on 9 and easy 10 moves past some OK but not great gear. Wires and a funky blue Camalot in a flare. An offset cam might work great here. When it starts to get hard (10c crux), place some gear in the corner to your right. I escaped right here, as suggested by Rossiter, to a left facing corner, then up and back left. The direct 10c crux looks exciting.
Belay at the same tree as for the upper part of the
Chockstone
. There are no fixed rap anchors here as of 1/19/03. To get off, downclimb with a belay about 20 feet right to the
Purple Haze
anchors.
Protection
Brass nuts (HB offsets or HPs) plus standard rack up to blue #3 Camalot, a large offset cam of blue camalot size would be perfect for up high. Single set of small cams.
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
- 19Superstone5.11Trad