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Up at the top of the West Ridge, this route has nice position. The first pitch is easy 5.9 then comes a nice crux. It is very technical but not sustained, a 3-move sequence with a big gravity bill waiting for anyone who doesn't keep their eyes and mind wide open. It seems a little harder than some area 5.11a's, but again, the crux is short and well-protected.
Protection
The pro solid for someone of average height. The crux is a bomber small-medium (#6BD) nut placement above the head that is at the feet when the crux is completed. Take a normal rack with 2 big-hand-sized cams for the jams getting up to the crux.
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
- 10Muscular Dystrophy5.11aTrad