Once Upon a Time

P1: Step left off of stacked blocks and do some unprotected moves to gain an overgrown flake/crack system which leads to a ledge. Continue up and over an overhang, to easier ground and the large Sorcerer ledge (5.9).There are other (recommended) ways to reach this ledge. See “The Sorcerer” page for alternatives.P2: Climb the finger crack, passing a large flake and a shallow right-facing dihedral. There’s an updated bolted anchor (equipped for rappel) at the end of the dihedral. Stellar pitch! (5.12a).P3: Meandering face climbing leads past 5 bolts. The crux is well-protected but it’s a bit runout as the difficulty eases. This pitch ends on a ledge at a bolted anchor shared by the route Kingpin . Bring a finger-size piece as a directional before traversing to the ledge if you like your partner (5.10c).

P4: Angle right and follow a thin crack/groove system past a two-bolt anchor (optional belay) to the crux roof pull of Coatimundi. Multiple 11- pulls on this pitch. (5.11a).

P5: Climb easy ground to the top of the cliff. 

The 2nd and 3rd pitches are Located between the right-facing Sorcerer corner and the left-facing Kingpin corner, on the main wall.

standard GM rack.Wires and cams from micro to .75 camalot for crux pitch. Draws for the bolted pitch. Bring hand-sized gear if taking it to the top.