We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

The Coke Bottle

FA 1967 Don Weaver,Rex Lambert, John Brucker. FFA 1971 Scott Baxter, Karl maelstrom, David Lovejoy
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Also the central rappel route for GM, this chimney system is one of those routes youโ€™ll come to love the more you do it. Good practice for more serious objectives that have runout chimney pitches.โ€œYosemite-style knee grinding chimney climbingโ€ (Cramer guide)Best to climb it on a day where there arenโ€™t many other folks climbing (literally any day of the season) since this is the most common descent off of the MountainP1: climb chimney to the rap anchor on the Froggy Bottom ledge P2: continue up chimney to the next rap anchor P3: climb hand crack in dihedral up to the High E or Beaver Cleaver finish .

Rap Route.

Location

If youโ€™ve rappelled off GM before, youโ€™ve likely found this route before.

Corner formed by the โ€œlittle brother buttressโ€ resting against the right wall.

Protection

sparse. Singles to #3or4 and some wires. Best to be solid in chimneys if leading


1000 km
1000 mi