The Sorcerer

P1: Grainy cracks lead past a bush to a ledge (5.9)P2: Move left and then up over overhang through the dike (pitons lead the way), to the base of the thin crack. Climb this crack to the big Sorcerer ledge. Belay off large slung horn. (5.10b)P3: The money pitch, and one of the raddest on the Mountain.Climb the steep and beautiful streaked right-facing corner. Continue out right to a belay stance on a small ledge. Long pitch. (5.11d)P4: Climb the hand crack/wide flake. Continue up cracks/corner to the base of the final Kingpin dihedral (5.10-).P5: Climb the final pitch of Kingpin to the top (5.8)a stellar GM route with lots of character. The beginning of the crux pitch seeps.

The Obvious right facing corner on the Main Face, with the black/blue/white/tan streaks at the base.I prefer a different approach pitch to get to the Sorcerer ledge. The original start is a bit overgrown at the moment (though traffic would clean it up)I like to start at a short left-arching finger crack that is maybe 50 feet left of Kingpin. This leads to some runout face climbing on good patina holds to a ledge. Then walk left to a triangular overhang, and pull over this (be wary of loose blocks). Walk left and climb cracks up to the ledge, then belay from the sling horn. This variation isn't in the Cramer guide, but its probably 5.7 R.Gunsmoke is another good option.Enjoy!

Doubles to #2 plus a #3. Micro to large stoppers. A few c3-sizes pieces. Quickdraws/runners.You can descend from the top of the crux pitch by rapping to the Once Upon a Time Anchor, then down to the Sorcerer ledge, then down to the ground.