- Edit (TBD)
Description
Beautiful low-angle slab pitch following an RP seam which accepts just enough gear to prevent a horror show. Some of the best rock The Mtn has to offer, and the movement is memorable and improbable.
This is one of few pitches at this crag that I would recommend previewing on TR before attempting a lead. The gear is very specific although good enough when you get it.
When the seam ends, follow Camptown Races to the top of the Flying Buttress.
Location
It’s a variation of the Classic. It starts on the ledge right of the Cherry tree at the base of Karl’s Korner’s last pitch.
Protection
Doubles of Blue and Red Ballnuts. A handful of small wires (yer smallest), including offsets. A few finger sized cams plus some larger cams for an anchor on top. One fixed knifeblade (replaced after much internal debate).
The Waugh guide shows 4 fixed pins (and a grade of 5.11). The Cramer guide shows 2 fixed pins (and 5.12a). When I got here there were none just lots of grass in the scars. All the scars take gear except where I replaced the pin.
Routes in Middle Section
- 33Thin Ice (variation)5.11+Trad