West Face of Tucapit

High quality route climbed by the Bills in '81. The route follows one crack system from bottom to top of the cliff. The rock is good and featured, the line is aesthetic, and the drilled pins still look pretty good. Expect a little bit of everything, although there's a decent bit of chimney climbing. Fun, physical climbing throughout the route.

Although we found a small stash of gear at the base of the route, the climb looked essentially untouched from the FA. The tat on the rap stations looked quite old; it was completely bleached and core-shot from the wind scouring it. We also found a #7 Forrest Teton at the base, apparently left by the FA team. There is an old, cryptic topo at the visitor center. I've provided a new one here that hopefully helps without giving too much away. Have fun!

Original AAJ Report

Park at and hike up the trail for the Middle fork of Taylor Creek. At the old cabin, head off trail towards the North Fork of Taylor Creek. Follow the wash until you're past the initial rock buttress that splits the creek forks. From here, you should be able to see the route through the trees. The route faces west on a narrow wall on the north side of Tucapit. Bushwhack up the hill to access the slickrock bowl that drains northwest below the route. The route is an obvious crack that splits the entire face, and becomes a chimney in lighter rock about halfway up. The approach should take an hour or so.

Descent: Rap the route. Take some tat.

We took triples to #3 BD, plus an old 3.5 to old 5. You could probably get away with doubles, although a good selection of new #3-#6 BD will make you feel pretty good about life. A red ballnut is nice for P3.