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Peak Mountain 3

Moped Man

FA unknown. FFA: Brandon Gottung and Xinwu Liu
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Moped Man is the right of the two twin corners on the north flank of the Tucupit subpeak. This route would easily be three stars if it was cleaner, but in its present state, it is a good, yet short Zion adventure with engaging climbing on interesting rock. Expect crispy edges, dirt and lichen. All-in-all this is fun Kolob route that has fallen into complete obscurity since the FA that could benefit from some traffic.

P1: 25m. 5.10+. Start in the flare at the base of the corner. Fun moves with dubious protection to a good ledge stance below the seamed out corner. Arrange some thin protection and decipher the mental crux of the route. Continue up the clean corner through the roof to a two-bolt belay at a stance in the wide pod.

P2: 32m. 5.10. Squirm up the slot to the crisp tight hand crack that pinches down to tight fingers before opening up into a flaring squeeze chimney and topping out the corner at a two-bolt belay on a nice ledge with a commanding view of the Tucupit's West Face and Horse Ranch Mountain.

Location

See approach info for T.occidentalis. Wander up the slabs to the base of the route.

A double rope rappel from the top gets down past the sketchy slab move that accesses the climb.

Protection

We used a double set from purple metolius to #2 camalot with singles #3-#5. Small stoppers and offset cams (green/yellow and yellow/red alien) were great to protect the start.

Two ropes get you down in a single rap, but a single 70 would work, just be sure to bring tat to equip the anchor above P1.