Tucupit nova

Tucupit nova

is cut in the same caliber stone as

Tucupit occidentalis

. Anticipate a longer, more challenging and much more adventurous outing. The topo should provide enough information but here are some notes that may be helpful:

-Make sure to save a #5 (or bump it along) for the crux of pitch one, near the top. Very sustained, physical 60 m pitch.

-On pitch two, chimney up to the constriction, place gear, then transition to the outside of the crack/pillar (continuing inside is the Nightlight var. to the Pain Chamber). The roof above is beautiful, intimidating and not nearly as difficult as it looks. It's best to climb through the deep flare and belay at the spectacular supernova ledge but there are earlier options if the rope drags (important to extend gear).

-Pitch three has a short, thin crux followed by lots perfect finger locks and stops in the cave (a two-bolt belay will be added, until then, gear is available inside the cave).

-Pitch 4 is a Tucupit classic with three distinct cruxes and lots of perfect hand jams.

The route then joins

T.occidentalis

at pitch 5 with an exciting traverse into the corner below the rocker block.

From the west face, 3rd class down ledges towards the north face. A short rappel from

Rhus aromatica

shrubs is optional. Begin from nova ledge. A comfortable bivy for two.

Double set cams to #5, with 1 extra #1. Slim set stoppers. A dozen slings and draws. Optional #6 / green bigbro. Optional extra #5s for pitch 1.

Two 60 m ropes.