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Peak Mountain 3

Tsunami

FA Craig Smith, 1992
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Tsunami offers a varied tour of the left side of Waimea's central wall. The leftmost of the popular 5.12's (the others being Whip Tide, Aquarius, Techno, and Big Kahuna), Tsunami sees a fair amount of traffic.Also typical of the climbs in this area, the start of Tsunami may prove troublesome. It must be the way the lower band of schist formed; all of the holds seem to point the wrong way. Stick clip the first bolt and crank hard to get on the wall. Shorter climbers might have to jump for the first hold. After the initial wall is breached, easy climbing leads to the base of the two foot wide roof.The roof actually points down. The underclings underneath the roof are positive enough, but is hard to escape the feeling that the edge of the roof is cutting into your chest. A deft use of a heelhook on a sloping edge out right allows passage over the roof and onto the hanging steep slab. This slab, ala Aquarius, has some pretty good footholds, so it is possible to rest.From the steep slab, head left to the arete itself. A considerable redpoint crux guards the chains. Top out on the mini ledge and clip the chains just to the left of Techno's anchors.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9WK_aFM42I

Protection

9 bolts