Big Kahuna

The hardest 12d at Rumney, Big Kahuna climbs the steep bulge to the left of Technosurfing. Look for the anchors partway up the cliff on the left side of the wall.

Stick clip the first bolt. The climb starts with a surprisingly hard inside corner. Next, jugs abound and lead to the base of the intimidating bulge. From here, climb on progressively worsening holds until the last bolt. This bolt may be difficult to clip; many people move left and match on a crimp in order to clip.

The last sequence is the crux. Expect a deadpoint to an edge. This edge is flat and probably a bit sloping, so sticking and holding it presents a considerable challenge.

Big Kahuna is just long enough for boulders to shy away from, and just powerful enough to give route climbers trouble. Therefore, a tick of Big Kahuna is an elusive one. Lately, people have been continuing from the chains to the top of Technosurfing. This offers more climbing, but adds no real difficulty. An alternative seldom done (like once) extension is to continue up the face towards the E-Ticket anchors with gear for protection (good climbing - see 6/28/11 note below)

5 bolts