Big, Bad Book

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This is a daunting, two pitch climb right up the heart of the South Face of Arthur’s Rock.

P1: (5.11b) Climb a broken crack system to gain the bottom of a pillar and the first bolt. Continue up the pillar until you reach a left-leaning crack/corner. Continue up the crack placing a #4 Camalot before launching into the bolt protected crux. A short handcrack leads to the anchor from there.

P2: (5.11) Traverse left from the belay and pull the short, roof crack feature. Over the roof, continue moving up and right, following the crack feature to reach the summit.

History

Referred to as the "Old Aid Route" by some people, it was rumored that this was a Mark Wilford route, but it was never confirmed. Apparently a climber named Rob Upton died on this route years ago. There is a plaque on a large boulder near the base of the climb dedicated to him. If you have any other info, please chime in.

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

P1: 3 bolts and a standard rack including a crucial #4 BD. 2-bolt chain anchor for lowering.

P2: standard rack, there is no anchor on top. Walk off only.