The Great Variant

The Great Variant is the obvious variation to climbing pitch 1 of

The Great Corner

. The rock is much better and the climbing is generally more appealing than the back shredding off-widths of the

The Great Corner

.

Start about 10 feet right of

The Great Corner

, and climb the featured crack system to a short bulge. Place a hand-sized cam, and move up and right through a juggy traverse to a stance at a short, left-facing corner. (DO NOT CLIP THE OLD PIN HERE. It's very sketchy and will be removed ASAP.) Continue climbing fun overlaps and face holds to the pitch 1 anchor on

The Great Corner

.

Descent: a 60m rope will get you down from the

The Great Corner

P1 anchor.

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Standard rack up to a #2 BD.