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Peak Mountain 3

Doom Corner

FA B. Scott
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This great mixed climb follows the obvious dihedral between

Big, Bad Book

and

Rocksie Rocks

. Start up the right-facing corner by placing a #4 and #3.5 Camalot and moving into the continuous stemming positions. At the top of the corner, a bouldery sequence (crux) leads over a short bulge to a rest before the final bulge. Clip the final bolt after a big move to reach the upper slab and the anchor.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Protection

4 bolts plus a standard rack with a #4 and #3.5 BD, 2-bolt chain anchor for lowering.