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Peak Mountain 3

Ship of Fools

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Description

Ship of Fools climbs a 2 pitch diversion up the ominous and huge, bombay chimney/flake in the middle of the Skin Industries Wall and then continues up the amazing prow with a splitter at the apex.  It is a fitting addition despite a little aid required up the prow. Pitch 3 ends with fantastic runout free climbing up bomber stone in a surreal position.  This two pitch variation is gained by climbing the 1st pitch of

Cirqus Voltaire

.

P1. Climb the 1st pitch of “

Cirqus Voltaire

”, a pleasant outing that ends on a nice perch with solid fixed anchors, 5.10, 100’+/-.

P2. Fire up the finger crack directly above the belay. Gradually move up and left through overhangs and roofs till entering the bombay squeeze. Climb this feature passing two bolts making strenuous moves to clip the anchors at a hanging belay- a great pitch!, 5.10, 80’+/-.

P3:  Continue up and out the apex of the bombay chimney and enter the thin crack/seam on the prow.  Continue up this amazing feature till it peters out and you are forced left, once you can start free climbing do so and climb fantastic moderate but runout 5.8 to a anchor at start of the chossy slabs.  5.8 C2 110’ +-

If you pass on the last pitch - Lower out, and pretend you're on El Cap to get back to the belay. You're probably 25’ to the left and mildly hanging in space. Run across the wall, and jump to get back to your P1 stance.  If you go to the top climb easy but runout climbing across the slab to the anchor at the top of Cirqus Voltaire, three single rope raps get you back to the ground.

This climb was a good addition to the wall and makes a great add on when climbing the

Circus Voltaire

. Or Skin Industries

Location

Take the Gold Star Canyon Trail to the Bench Trail, and head right at the intersection. Walk past the Irishman’s Temple for ten minutes. The obvious features of the Skin Industries Wall are immediately ahead. It is a 35 minute approach.

Protection

A single BD rack from #4 to #0.2 with extra #0.1/0.2/0.3/0.4/0.5/0.75 - 3 of each, nuts, alpine draws, and a single rope.